Warning: This post is not appropriate for all viewers! So I take no responsibility for your kiddos looking over your shoulder and seeing inappropriate images as you read this. ;)
I went to Tagata Shrine's Honen-sai fertility festival, which is also known among the foreigners here as the penis festival. I bought a pamphlet at the shrine to get a better understanding of what's going on, and actually found it quite informative. So I know many of you think it's weird and creepy that people go to a shrine to worship a penis every year... but you need to understand that it's a festival deeply rooted in history with many more important aspects than just the phallus. So read this with an open mind!
Shinto shrines are found all over Japan. They serve as houses for divine spirits as well as places for preserving the memory and practice of many aspects of Japanese culture. This particular shrine, Tagata Shrine, is famous for their fertility festival on March 15 of every year.
Tagata Shrine is estimated to be at least 1,500 years old. Located near the main shrine building is a smaller structure which houses a variety of natural and man-made objects, all with a phallic theme or representation. These objects are considered offerings to the deity. They have traditionally been loaned out to those individuals searching for spouses, needing diseases cured, or wishing for a child. When the desired result was produced, the objects were then returned to the shrine together with a new phallic symbol as a token of gratitude. This practice is a survival of ancient and widespread rituals designed to ensure agriculture as well as other kinds of human regeneration. These goals were promoted by a mythical union between a male and female and corresponds to fertility rituals worldwide, especially amongst Buddhist countries.
Because of the association with the penis, one gets the impression that the phallus is the object being worshiped. But it should be noted that the center of the shrine is not the phallus itself, but rather the worship of the earth as a powerful generative force. One of the most important features of the long history of the Tagata Honen-sai festival is its goal of ensuring a plentiful harvest each year.
Since newly-made objects are thought to possess more purity and vitality, each year a new wooden phallus is fashion from a single Japanese cypress tree. In the middle of winter, the tree is brought to the shrine for a solemn ritual of purification and dedication. Through the skill of a master craftsman using traditional tools and wearing ritually-pure clothing, this tree is then slowly carved into the wooden phallus that will, after the Honen-sai festival, reside in the shrine as a principal object of worship. The phallus is about 13 feet long and weighs about 620 pounds!
This is the basic underlying principle for the festival: to ensure agricultural fertility as well as human regeneration. So it's important to remember, the phallus is not a magical object in itself but rather a symbolic one evoking themes of fertility. Specially prepared foods and drinks are offered to the deity, and prayers are recited requesting a bountiful harvest as well as peace and security.
So if a new giant phallus is carved each year, where do the previous ones go? Apparently they are sold to private homes, inns, or restaurants. The new owner then makes an appropriate alter where the phallus is installed and visited with periodic rituals and offerings.
So now here are some pictures from the festival!
There were many penis-shaped foods at the festival - from chocolate/vanilla/strawberry covered bananas, to hot dogs, and even penis candy. I had the strawberry covered banana, and it was actually very tasty!
The 13-foot 620 pound giant phallus being carried throughout town in a parade.
There were several women in the parade carrying around smaller versions. They carried them on the sides near the crowd, so that people could easily touch them.
Free sake for everyone! I'm not exactly sure why this happened, but everyone in the crowd was able to get free sake.
Elodie and I definitely stood out in our bright colors. Since it was a fertility festival, and we are foreigners, I'm assuming that's why we were so popular...? I actually don't think I've ever had my picture taken by people in Japan (unlike China, where I felt like a celebrity). But at this festival, Elodie was definitely a hit - people constantly wanting to touch her and take her picture. I never found out if we were on the news or not, but this camera crew had us in film quite a while.
It was a fun day, and a good learning experience. Something that I'll always remember and an overall very unique Japanese experience.
Some of the nicest people I've ever met!! We meet for lunch a couple of times a month at a little local tea shop which serves some of the best Japanese food I've ever had. Who would have thought that I'd move to Japan and become good friends with people almost twice my age that don't exactly speak fluent English!? I feel so fortunate to have met these wonderful women. Not only do they invite Elodie and me out for lunch, but they also help me with all of the little details that constantly make life living abroad difficult, such as: translating whenever I need help with both people and documents, teaching me how to cook Japanese food, showing me what things are at the grocery store (and buying me the correct products!), making phone calls/appointments/reservations for us, inviting our visitors over for a Japanese meal, karaoke, and tea ceremonies.... the list goes on and on.
